Clare's Cooking Blog

The basic recipe for all the no-knead breads we make is the one from Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery, published in the New York Times as long ago as 2006.  Here’s the link:

Recipe: No-Knead Bread - New York Times

 That said, we’ve done a lot of experimenting, all along the lines of using different flours, so that we can have a heartier experience.  In all probability our breads don’t rise as much, but they toast beautifully, last well, and are healthier (more fiber, lower glycemic index).  I’m going to rewrite the basic recipe, so as to add some hints and variations along the way …

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OK - first, a confession.  In general, I’m a great believer in the proposition that breads should be given plenty of time to develop before baking - at least the 16-20 hours allowed by a no-knead bread, if not the 3-5 days involved in cultivating a sourdough starter, using it to make a production leaven, and so forth.  BUT, on the other hand, I really wanted to have a foolproof and not too complicated ciabatta recipe, to go with summer dinners, or a lunch of prosciutto, mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, basil, olive oil, balsamic vinegar … you get the picture.

So … my sister provided the winning recipe.  Except that it comes from England, where you can breezily require ‘ciabatta flour’ and no one will batt an eyelid, or raise an eyebrow, take your pick.  What IS ciabatta flour?  Well, it’s white, and apparently just a little more coarsely ground than regular all purpose flour, which assists the dough in achieving the holes that characterize ciabatta.  But as far as I’ve been able to ascertain, it’s not available in the US - at least not on line.  And no, it’s NOT ‘00’ flour, which IS a specialty Italian flour that IS available here - but is more fine than all purpose flour, not coarser.  My solution has been to use mostly all purpose flour, with just a little white bread flour for the gluten, and to continue to ask after ciabatta flour every time I’m in a promising store.

I’ve also converted the European measures into easy American ones.  I usually make a double batch, if company is coming, and find I can still air knead it, and still fit it on to a large baking sheet, but I’m giving just the single loaf recipe here.

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Miklos and I first tasted this decadent french toast casserole in Gainesville, Florida at the Sweetwater Branch Inn.  I was there looking for a place to live during my clinical training year at the Academy of Five Element Acupuncture, feeling a little disoriented and apprehensive, needing comfort.  This is the epitome of comfort food - and so good that the staff have printed recipes ready to distribute, knowing full well that you are going to want to take one with you.  Although for the sake of your arteries it won’t be a weekly treat.

• 1 stick butter
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 2 tsp Karo syrup
• 1 inch slices of French or challah bread (enough to cover 9x12 pan)
• 6 eggs
• 2 cups milk
• cinnamon

In a pan, melt and combine 1 stick butter, 1 cup brown sugar and 2 tsp Karo syrup.  Remove from heat and pour mixture into a greased 9x12 pyrex dish (use the butter paper from your stick of butter to grease the dish!).  Layer the bread slices over the mixture.  Mix 6 eggs and 2 cups of milk.  Pour egg mixture over bread.  Top with sprinkled cinnamon.  Allow to soak overnight.

The next morning, bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour.  Serve hot.  A good (not to mention elegant) accompaniment is cold cantaloupe with a sprig of mint.

The one caution I’d add is that in most houses in most weathers you’d probably want to do the overnight soaking in the fridge.  On the other hand, you don’t really want to put a really cold glass dish straight into a hot oven - and risk it cracking.  The solution is to get up quite a bit earlier than your guests, take the dish out of the fridge while you warm up the oven and enjoy your first cup of coffee, and only put the dish in when it’s not quite so cold.  15 to 20 minutes in a warmish spot in the kitchen should be enough.

And we cooked!

So I’m inspired to come back to the blog, after lo these many months, and add some of our weekend recipes.  The most decadent by far was a french toast casserole, which got more complicated than usual because we had to make our own challah before even getting started.  But bread baking was already on the agenda - both ciabatta and no-knead breads of a hearty variety.  Read on…